GWR "Night Riviera" Sleeper - London to the far south west
A review of the GWR "Night Riviera" sleeper service from London Paddington to Penzance
As one of only two sleeper services in the UK, and being fond of rail travel in general, I had the opportunity to try out the London Paddington to Penzance "Night Riviera" Sleeper service.
This service is operated by Class 57 diesel locomotives and operates in both directions 6 days per week (it doesn't run on Saturdays). Leaving London at 2345 local time, arriving in Penzance, in the far south west of the UK at 0750. This service is an excellent way of traversing the 304 miles that this journey covers whilst being gently rocked by the movement of the train in your very own sleeping compartment.
That's the theory anyway! What is it like in practice?
One of the great things about the timing of this service is that allows you a full day in London, with time for dinner and to catch some evening entertainment before heading to Paddington station.
The train itself has a number of sleeper carriages, a dining car as well as seated coach carriages. If you've elected to pay for a sleeper car this gives you the ability to access the lounge at Paddington, where complimentary snacks and showers are available to use.
The lounge was comfortable and quiet, and a nice way to relax before starting the journey. About 45 minutes prior to departure, those in sleeper cabins are invited to board the train, where there are staff on hand to ensure you get to the correct compartment, brief you on how everything works and to take your (included) breakfast order for the morning.
This particular journey was operated by two of GWR's four class 57 locomotives - 57602 "Restormel Castle" and 57603 "Tintagel Castle".
The service consists of wheelchair accessible cabins and toilets, although these need to be booked well in advance as they are limited in number.
My cabin was not en-suite, and could accommodate two - in a top and bottom bunk configuration. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and cleanliness of the compartment and found it very comfortable to relax, although my general excitement for trip was not conducive to a good night's sleep.
To find out more details on this trip, including what I got up to when I arrived at Penzance, please subscribe to my blog.
My adventure began as we pulled out of London Paddington right on schedule, gliding westward through the early evening towards Reading. The excitement was palpable as we made our first stop to pick up more passengers. With a few hours ahead of me, I decided to explore the dining car, where I was greeted by the friendliest staff, offering complimentary tea and coffee for those of us lucky enough to have booked a sleeper cabin. In the spirit of indulgence, I opted for a gin and tonic, paired with a packet of crisps, before retreating to my cozy cabin to settle in for the night.
The thrill of the journey made it difficult to unwind at first. The cabin, though snug, was comfortable, especially with the bunk bed folded up against the wall, creating plenty of space for just me and my belongings. I imagine it might feel a bit tight with two, but for now, it was perfect. Eventually, the gentle rocking of the train lulled me to sleep, though I occasionally woke when we stopped at stations along the way, curious to catch glimpses of the route.
I must admit, I was a bit nervous about the bathroom situation before the trip, but I was pleasantly surprised. The toilet was more spacious than what you’d find on a plane and impeccably clean throughout the journey. The exact route taken by this service varies due to possible engineering works, but I found the unpredictability added a sense of adventure to the trip. As dawn broke, we were crossing the border into Cornwall. Even though the weather wasn’t on my side, with clouds and drizzle obscuring the view, I could still imagine the breathtaking scenery that must unfold under sunnier skies.
By the time we rolled into Penzance, I was refreshed and ready to explore. The station may be small, but it has a lounge where I took advantage of the complimentary refreshments and even had a shower—such a welcome treat after a night on the train. My plan for the day was to visit Saint Ives, a short train ride from Penzance and one of my favorite spots in Cornwall. Despite the wet weather, I was determined to make the most of my time.
The journey to Saint Ives was a quaint experience in itself and the short section between St Erth and St Ives is widely regarded as one of the most scenic railway lines in the country. This “St Ives Bay“ line is only 4.25 miles long, and consists of 5 stations. They’ve recently updated the signalling system in the area, but on my trip, the traditional practice was still in place—handing a physical token to the guard to confirm the single train line was in use. It’s a charming throwback to a different era of rail travel.
Arriving in Saint Ives, the rain couldn’t dampen my spirits. I headed straight for a familiar café, where I warmed up with a delicious coffee and a raisin pastry. Energized, I made my way to the Tate Saint Ives, a must-see whenever I’m in town. Wandering through the galleries, I lost track of time, completely immersed in the art and the beauty of the surroundings. Before I knew it, it was lunchtime, and of course, being in Saint Ives, fish and chips by the quayside was the only option.
As my day in Saint Ives drew to a close, I made my way back to the station to catch my train home. Thanks to some clever planning and the wonders of trainsplit.com, I managed to snag a first-class ticket all the way back to Salisbury for just £45—a perfect end to an unforgettable journey.
